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2004.10.23

消えた最長距離鈍行

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 日本の汽車旅から、旅情あふれる鈍行列車が消えていったように、韓国の鉄道からも旅情は消えつつある。

 この春、ソウル-釜山・木浦間に高速鉄道KTX華々しくが開業したが、その影で、多くの列車が消えていった。釜山市内の釜田駅と、ソウルの東の玄関・清凉里駅を結んでいた最長距離鈍行「トンイル」1221/1222列車は、そんな列車のひとつ。ソウルと釜山を結びながら、韓国屈指のローカル線でもある中央線を、古びた客車を連ねて13時間走り続けていた。

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 明け方6時過ぎに釜田を出発する列車に乗り、清凉里まで乗り通してみた。運賃は、たったの1000円。客車は長距離トンイル号専用旧型客車で、どこか昭和30年代の国鉄特急列車を思わせる。扉は手動開閉。2人がけのロマンスシートだが、リクライニングはしない。

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 沿線は、終始のびやかな韓国の田舎だ。山、川、民家と、どこか日本に似た風景が延々と続く。車内販売のおじさんが、ひとりで車内を行き来して、いろいろなものを売っていた。弁当とビールを買った。開けっ放しのデッキで、風にあたりながら韓国料理を食べる幸せ。もう、韓国でも味わえなくなってしまった。

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 19時すぎに清凉里着。その足で明洞へ行くと、そこはソウルだった。

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乗車日:2004年2月23日

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