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2004.08.02

対馬-釜山の国際航路

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▲外から見るとまっとうなシーフラワー

 対馬に韓国人観光客が増えている原動力が、これ。釜山-対馬間の高速船、「シーフラワー」だ。
 日本海の鬱陵島へ高速船を就航させている大亜高速海運が、数年前から就航させている。乗客はほぼ全員韓国人。対馬でチケットを買おうにも、窓口がないので事務室へ直接行くしかない。

 この船、びっくりするほど波に弱い。今まで何人か友だちが乗船を試みたが、すべて高波による欠航で断念。今回も、台風10号の接近で2日間厳原港に閉じこめられ、昨日の厳原港は韓国人であふれていた。海が静まった今朝、貯まった客を釜山に送り届けたシーフラワーは、16時に、対馬の北端・比田勝港から再び出港する。釜山まで約50km、日本最短の国際航路である。

 15時すぎに比田勝港に行くと、待合室はすでに韓国の人たちでいっぱいだった。運び屋さんが中心の下関港と違い、ほぼ全員が観光客だ。対馬中の観光客を集めたような賑やかさである。これで、対馬側に韓国語を解する人がいないというのは、マズイでしょう。

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▲全員、韓国の方

 出港時刻10分前になっても何の案内もないので、夕立の中隣の出国審査場(というかプレハブ)を覗くと、いつの間にか審査が始まっている。結局最後まで案内はなく、乗船客は全員口コミで出国審査場に移動したらしい。ここはすでに韓国か。

 薄暗い船内、自分の席を探し、座ってみる。想像を絶するおんぼろ船だ。シートは昭和30年代の国鉄特急みたいな趣で、シート上の蛍光灯はカバーが割れている。シートを倒そうとレバーを押したら、折れそうな音がしたので慌ててやめた。

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▲いったいいつの時代のシートなのか…

 16:35出港。港を出ると、いきなり気持ちいいほど上下に揺れる。シーフラワーは、海面に浮かんだまま推進力だけで進む高速船なので、波の影響をまともに受けるのだ。波の高さ2m。よく見ると、この船前に進んでない。「としまえんのバイキング」かよ!と突っ込みを入れ、トイレに駆け込む乗客を眺めるうちに、ぐっすり眠ってしまった。防衛本能が働いたのであろうか。

 18:45、本来所要1時間20分のところを、2時間10分かけて釜山に到着。とりあえず船に穴があかなくて良かった。

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