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2004.02.11

さらば、吉野家の牛丼

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▲さらば、わが青春の牛丼
 そういうわけで、僕の予想はものの見事にはずれ、今日で吉野家は牛丼の販売を中止した。いつなくなるかわからなかったので、ここのところ、小腹が空くと牛丼をたべていたような気がする。今日こそ、最後である。

 松戸駅西口店。並と卵を注文する。よく、「並、ギョク、ツユダクで」とか言っている輩がいるが、あれは間違いである。まず吉野家には「ギョク」という単語はなく、「たまご」と言うべきだ。そして、最も大きな誤りが、「ツユダク」である。

 たまごをかける時、牛丼はツユダクにしてはいけない。

 なぜか。それは、汁気が増えすぎて味のバランスが崩れるからである。とくに、ご飯の旨味がスポイルされてしまう。どうしてもツユダクにたまごをかけたい場合は、肉とご飯を別々、つまり「牛皿ツユダク並で、たまごとごはん」と注文するのが正しい。

 もうひとつ。たまごを溶いた後、牛丼の上にまんべんなくふりかける人がいるが、とんでもないことである。牛丼に対する冒とくにほかならない。そんなことをしたら、できたてアツアツの牛丼が一気に冷めてしまう。たまごも、全体が肉とご飯の熱にさらされ、中途半端に固まってしまう。

 どんぶりの片側を掘って穴を作り、そこに流し込むのが正しい。そして、たまごと一緒に食べたい分だけを、かきまぜて食べるのだ。穴の反対側に残った、卵のかかっていない部分はそのまま食べて、一度でふたつの味を楽しむのが通である。

 最後に「大盛りねぎだくギョク」。これに至っては情けなさすら覚える。おまえ、「大盛りねぎだくギョク」って言いたいだけちゃうんかと。

 吉野家の牛丼は、並でこそ価値がある。価格的にも、分量的にも、大盛りや特盛はバランスが悪い。ねぎだく。これは、たしかに旨い。だが、それは鍋管理が完ぺきなときの話だ。鍋の温度、肉とねぎ、タレの分量バランス、材料投入のタイミング、余分な脂の抜き加減、煮込み時間、果ては肉とねぎの、鍋内における位置関係。それらがすべて噛み合った時に、初めて旨い。つまり、タレが、最高の条件で煮込まれ、必要な肉汁を充分含んで持てる旨味を120%発揮した時、それはねぎに染み込んで至高の味となる。

 だが、それをぶちこわすのが、たまごであることは言を待たない。

 本当の通は、「並」。これで充分なのだ。たまごを頼むのも良いだろう。だが、その時はツユヌキだ。ねぎだく? 肉を盛りつけているのが、エリアマネージャークラスの幹部であれば、チャレンジしても良いだろう。だが、基本は並。並しかない。並盛りに、吉野家の牛丼のすべてが詰まっている。

 おわかりいただけただろうか。さあ、あなたも吉野家へ行って、牛丼を注文しよう。

 「並」、と。

 …そうだった、牛丼、もうないんだった。
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▲最終日は深夜まで込み合った

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いよいよなくなるということで牛丼を食べに行く。心なしか並盛りも普通よりも肉が少... [Read More]

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